~40 AMP or by pass it temporarily, to ensure narrow the issue down to the fuse.

Solution: Ensure red (+) black (-) wires are firmly connected to the motor or in some cases soldered.

Solution: Clean the trigger contacts or replace them if they are broken. If they are simply not coming in contact with the each other, bend them in a way that they do. You can narrow this issue down several ways, if you don’t have voltmeter handy, take apart the mechbox, reassemble the mechbox with your trigger and complete trigger switch (trigger switch, trigger trolley, trigger trolley spring, and wires of course) are in only . Connect the motor plugs to the motor, hook up your battery, and pull the trigger. If it spins your good, if not you need to re-adjust the female contacts.

Solution: Bend the outside contact(s) so they are coming in full contact with the metal contact on the selector plate.

Solution: Make sure the wires are pushed into the plug as much as possible; the plugs should be even on both sides (jutting out the same length.) If the issue persists, it would be wise to convert to Deans connectors.

Solution: Bush the brush or brushes (2) back in and properly re-install the spring(s) so they are pushing the brushes onto the armature.

Solution: Apply solder to complete circuit.

Solution A: Plug in a fully charged battery to your AEG, the battery needs to be of high quality preferably with a nominal voltage of 9.3 Volts or higher. Shoot the AEG and see if it will cycle. It should be noted that if your gearbox continues to lock up, you will need to get a new battery and/or purchase a higher torque motor- if your stock motor is way under powered.

Solution B: With at least the lower part of the GearBox exposed, stick in a strong thin, pick-like rod and push or pry the Anti-Reversal Latch up or to the side to get it off of the anti-reversal gear on the bevel gear. On stock guns this can typically be done every time, but with gearboxes using a strong springs (example 2 Joule or higher), you do have a higher risk of breaking the AR Latch on heavier springs as the gearbox is under more stress.

Solution C: If you cannot access the anti-reversal latch, the next easiest thing to do is open up your gearbox and reset everything to their relaxed position.

Solution: Replace the stripped Gear(s)

Solution: Re Shim the gearbox or have a tech re shim it for you, so that all gears are meshing properly, have no or very little play, yet so that they can spin freely.

Solution: Lower the motor height.

Solution: raise your motor height until the gun shoots normal, you are going to want to continue to raise the motor height adjustment screw right before you hear a drop in rate of fire.

Solution: Add shims to the top of the bevel gear, forcing it to contact the pinion. If you are unsure about your shimming ask a tech or have a tech do it for you.

Solution: Replace the stripped gear(s) with an upgraded gear set.

Solution: Have gears re-shimmed properly.

Solution: Replace bearings to solid steel bushings or convert to ceramic bearings.

Solution: Replace piston with an upgraded one; be sure to correct the AoE.
*You will be able to see the air nozzle moving back and forth*

Solution A: Shim the hop up away from the front of the mechbox. This is done by adding material to the back of the hop up sits further in front of the Gearbox shell. Note you should do this in small increments with trial and error. Try and not shim too far as you will lose a significant amount of FPS. You can use hard rubber, as long as it can be sanded and cut to shape.

Solution B: Like the solution listed above, you can add material to the front of the Tappet plate.

Solution A: Add a sector clip, if you do not have one you can make one.

Solution: Please do a compression test and see if there is any air leaks when you press the piston head down. All of your compression components should be in top notch; this is pretty well known so I won’t dive into it. If you have a replace the parts with something that seals better, or even better, seal them up so they do not have an issue.

Solution: Quality metal hop up and good quality bucking- Lonex and Prometheus are great options as far as consistency. It is wise to ditch the brass ring that “seals” the hop up to barrel and do the O-Ring mod, that will not only help with compression leaks and helps with accuracy, but will eliminate the need for a hop up spring. If you are unsure which O rings to purchase, HS5 makes them. If you do not have the O-Rings or anything to seal, Teflon tape seals nicely.

Solution : Use a shorter Tappet Plate, this is typically done by removing material from the front of the tappet plate (the bit that comes in contact with the front of the GB shell,) Do not remove too much material (if any) from the top portion of the tappet plate where the air nozzle sits. This modification, will allow the air nozzle to be pushed further into the hop unit hopefully creating a better seal from the air nozzle to the bucking, you can do this as trial and error as well, remove material, test, removal material, test, etc. It shouldn’t take too long.

Solution: Depending on what is rubbing up against the cylinder walls either the piston head itself or the O-Ring. Try another piston head. It should be noted this is an issue that will occur when you mix and match compression parts.

Solution: Replace the broken part.

Solution: Disassemble the hop unit and reposition the nub correctly.

Solution: Depending on if the plastic gears are broken or one has simply popped out of place and not making contact with other gear(s). If it’s broken you can still adjust the hop with the barrel out and rotate the final gear (the gear that adjusts the hop up arm) or you preferably seek a replacement set of hop up gears for your AR.

Solution: Replace the nub with a harder one – MadBull buckings are notoriously hard.

Solution: Switch to a softer one –Lonex 50 degree, SHS, Systema.

Solution: Disassemble and Realign hop up with barrel window.

Solution: Re-align your bucking onto the barrel, if you are having trouble getting it to stay in place as try adding 100% silicone (liquid form to your bucking and then slide your hop unit over it)

Solution A: You can try the Dental Floss mod (if you do not know about this Google it)

Solution B: Purchase a new bucking.

Solution: Clean your bore, it is not an option.

Solution : Shim the hop up arm; this is done by adding an even amount of material on both sides of the hop arm, so that there is not side to side movement. I have not yet done this, but it seems metal sheets (aluminum and brass) are the preferred method of doing this.

Solution: Make sure your shimming is sport on, if you’re shimming from the bevel gear, you shouldn’t really need to adjust your motor height when it is completed. If you are pulling a heavy spring, you should already be running a torque motor (neodymium magnets). Torque motors also tend to run cooler than speed motors as they have more windings, typically.

Solution A: Use a better battery.

Solution B: MOSFET switches do help. Active braking will cure the issue, but will result in increased wear and tear on your motor/brushes and cause additional heat.

Solution C: If you are still having issues you can try and shape the cut off lever, so that moves only as long as it needs to, (up and down quickly-no delay)

Solution: Where the selector plate is engaging the safety switch, you will need to shave down the knob in a way that the selector plate will not touch the safety lever on semi-auto.

Solution: Shave down the protruding mound on the cut of lever screw hole. You should shave it down so that it is completely flush with surrounding edges of the cut off lever. Do not drill too much as the cut off lever will not be able to move freely. The end goal here is to lower the cut off levers position slightly.

Solution: Add material to the back of the trolley or to the top of the trigger so it will no longer slip off. You will be able to test your modification very easily.

Solution: Replace the brushes and clean the motor.

Solution: Do the O-ring mod. If you have hop spring, they rarely are sufficient enough.

Solution: Port your cylinder with your barrel length. There are many tables online. There really is no set formula or ratio for this. The best way of doing this is buying the correct cylinder for your barrel length. If you plan on using heavier BBs such as .28g or heavier, go up one size more. Example, M4 should be ported to a standard ported cylinder if you plan on using heavier rounds, use a type 1 cylinder.

Solution: Has already been stated- Refer back to Issue: Lower than expected FPS.

Solution: Find out why your reversal latch is not engaging, it could be as simple as the spring has come off or it has broke, the ARL itself has broken, or was installed incorrectly to begin with. If this is not the case, you may need to shim the reversal latch up to better engage with the bevel gear. Modifications such as these are only really pertinent when adding and installing new parts.

Solution: Replace trigger contacts or entire trigger switch, both solutions are very cheap.

Solution: Shape optimize the female contacts in your trigger switch so they both make a good solid contact with the male sliding contact.

Solution: Secure the wires so they do not move about, if you do not have a version GB, they should almost always be soldered on and then insulated with heat shrink wrap.